In
many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little, yet enjoy a
position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment.
We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read. But the bitter truth we critics must
face, is that in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is
probably more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are
times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and
defense of the new. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations. The
new needs friends. Last night, I experienced something new: an extraordinary
meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its
maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross
understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have made no
secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous motto, "Anyone can cook."
But I realize, only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can
become a great artist; but a great artist can come from anywhere. It is
difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking
at Gusteau's, who is, in this critic's opinion, nothing less than the finest
chef in France. I will be returning to Gusteau's soon, hungry for more.
Peter
O'Toole da voz -y qué voz- a Anton Ego en Ratatouille, de Brad Bird. Quizás
ayudó al inglés o irlandés, depende de las
fuentes, saber de qué se habla cuando dice eso de humble origins: always
wanted to try being either a poet or an actor.
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